Whirlpool Electric Range Wiring Diagram – I have a problem with my WFE320M0ES0 WFE320M0ES0. I checked the 3 pin outlet getting 120 and 240 on each line. I checked the range terminal and I get 120 and 240 on each line.
I only get a 50-55 display on W11122560 which won’t let it turn on. Can we at least point out that I have a problem with the wiring harness from the terminal to the display? How can I find out where this is happening?
Whirlpool Electric Range Wiring Diagram
Thanks for the answer. I took the above measurements using the control plugin. After removal, all leads showed zero.
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Also, when I measure the black surface in the lower right corner with the neutral white, I get 120. Is this information helpful?
Igatchel said: When I measure the black lead on the bottom right with the neutral white I get 120. Is this information helpful? Click to expand…
This is the power of control. If it receives 120V but does not light, the control is faulty and needs to be replaced.
I don’t know what your other readings say, but that doesn’t change the above fact. If the controller is getting power but not working, that’s bad.
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Thank you for your help. So the white lead in the upper right red circle is neutral to the black lead in the lower right orange circle? These two together power the controller, right?
According to the wiring diagram, there is a white wire going to connector 1, position 1 on the control system, and a black wire going to connector 2, position 4 on the control panel, which supplies 120V. If such authority exists, the board must act with reason or it is defective.
Fixed issue with Whirlpool electric hob model WFC150M0EB0 that stopped working after being plugged in (cut terminal/red connection) image included
Fixed Frigidaire GCRE3060AFF oven and display being disabled but cooktop still working and oven working when cooktop is on. The LF switch on my Amana AKT3040SS electric stove is faulty. The FSP 12002422 replacement switch is completely different from the old switch and all the terminals are marked differently. It came in a package without instructions. The terminals on the old switch are labeled 2, 3, 4, 5, N and the new switch is labeled L1, L2, H1, H2, P. Is there a cross reference somewhere?
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I have a wiring diagram for this electric stove, but it is either incorrect or incomplete. The old switch has two separate BU/WH wires, one going to terminal 3 and one going to the ground terminal, but the wiring diagram only shows one BU/WH wire going to the LF switch.
The new 12002422 switch has 2 male spades next to the “P” terminal but they do not have continuity. Which terminal is “P”?
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You said left only in your first post, but you have 2 left shifters, front and rear.
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The left front looks like a double burner switch, the left rear is a single burner switch. What burner switch are you replacing?
If it’s the dual switch on the left front, I see the problem is that the person who got that switch didn’t send you the proper switch.
Are you saying the old black double switch was in your stove??? It’s not blue (12002422), you know?
–> Terminal #2 on the original switch goes to L1 on the new switch, N goes to L2 on the new switch, Terminal #3 goes to H1, Terminal #4 goes to H2, and #5 goes to P on the new switch.
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The “P” cord on the new switch has two terminals and no continuity. Which speed terminal is the “P” connection?
Note that in the attached image the two BU/WT wires go to the old switch. The wire coming from the LF burner goes to terminal “3” of the old switch. Where does the BU/WT wire that is between “2” and “3” on the old switch go on the new switch? Notice in the picture that the middle terminal between “2” and “3” on the old switch has a ground symbol. I tried a continuity test on the new switch to see if there was a ground on the terminal but could not find it. The second middle BU/WT wire goes from the old switch to the RF torch.
The “P” cord on the new switch has two terminals and no continuity. Which speed terminal is the “P” connection? Click to expand… I don’t see the two “P” terminal connections on the new switch, I only see one image of the new switch in my image (post #4) and that’s the one on the far right at the bottom. New switch Presentation size: 800*572 pixels. Other resolutions: 320*229 pixels 640 × 458 pixels | 1024 × 733 pixels | 1280 × 916 pixels | 2560 × 1832 pixels | 6336 × 4534 pixels.
English: Wiring diagram of an electric stove of Soviet times. The manufacturer guaranteed a 25-year warranty, but this furnace worked for 29 years. How long can your stove last?
File:wiring Diagram Of Ussr Electric Stove.jpg
Printing factory “AK LMZ”; This stove model was discontinued in 1990 and disappeared from sale in May 1991.
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This file contains additional information, such as Exif metadata, that may have been added by the digital camera, scanner, or software used to create or digitize it. If the original state of the file has been modified, some details such as timestamps may not fully reflect the original file. The time stamp is only as accurate as the clock in the camera, and it can be completely wrong. You should check the main power wires where they come into range of the T-block, sometimes they can be burnt. Also check the house fuse (or circuit breaker) that supplies power to the range. Checking with a voltmeter, you should get 240 volts between the black and red power wires. Outlets and power cords can also burn out and fail.
Sometimes there are screws on the back of the temperature knob (300-350 etc.), you can loosen these screws and adjust the knob according to the oven temperature. picture Some oven controls have a hollow shaft, you will need a small straight screw to adjust the oven temperature by turning the adjustment screw at the bottom of the hollow shaft.
Typical Gas Range Wiring Diagram, L1 N
What to check – screw in the fuses, usually 30 A fuses for the oven. Next comes the watch assembly, often these watches have the words “manual” or “manual” on them, this will put the watch back into normal working mode, not automatic. Next, you may need to disconnect the power and check for frayed wires. If everything is fine, you need to check the switch and oven controls.
Temperature too low – possible causes, blown oven fuse, baking element, burnt wire, oven probe clamps, oven temperature control, oven temperature sensor.
Too high temperature – possible problems with oven, oven temperature control, oven relay (if used), oven probe clamps, oven temperature sensor, shorted wire.
These oven probe clamps often rust and the oven temperature sensor gets stuck under the oven wall or touches the oven wall, causing the oven controller to show incorrect temperature readings.
Akt3040ss Whirlpool 12002422 Switch Wiring For Electric Cooktop
Check with an ohmmeter. . . End the range. Turn the switch to the up position, you should hear a “click” in the high position. Remove the wires from the limit switch. Make sure you know how to replace the wires. Check L1 to H1, L2 to H2 and P to H1. If there is no continuity at all these points, the switch is faulty. A sample of the interior is here.
Check with a voltmeter. . . . . End the range. Remove the access cover to access the switch. Turn the range. With the voltmeter set to read 240V, read across L1 and L2. (No power, check fuse or wiring) Should be 240 volts. Turn the switch to high. Read the voltage across H1 and H2. It should be 240V. If you don’t read 240V here, replace the breaker. A sample of the interior is here.
It’s usually a contact inside the switch that holds it together. Because this connection
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