Nordyne Electric Furnace Wiring Diagram

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I have an electric heater central air/heat system with a standard thermostat. I replaced the thermostat with no change (which was a while ago), so I believe it is not the thermostat that is causing the problem.

Nordyne Electric Furnace Wiring Diagram

I put the left dial obviously on “heat” and the right dial on auto or on. It does not come (fan or heat) for the car. For On, the fan runs, but the heating element turns on and off approximately every 3 seconds.

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Does anyone know what this problem is? Also, is there any way I can cancel that for now and just turn on the heater to heat the house? thank you

I removed the access plate and there are 6 basic components that I can see: 1. Two element slide in panel – top rear. There are two large black and two large red wires coming out of the 2. Single-Element Slide-In Panel – Lower Rear. One large black and red each. 3. Contactor (?) left front – where thermostat wires 4. Transformer (?) left rear 5. Circuit breaker – front center 6. Blower motor (under all) – 3 wires lead to it.

Ok, here is the diagram for everything on the blower motor that is not on the front panel, including the blower relay and 24VAC transformer. The diagram and part number of the blower relay are shown in these pictures:

Before making any adjustments to the unit internally, please confirm that all main disconnects and/or breakers feeding the unit are turned off. Do not attempt this task unless you are skilled enough to do it safely.

Visually Inspecting Wiring And Terminals Of Electric Furnace

If the thermostat is in “fossil” mode (the common default), it will not activate the electric furnace in “auto” when heat is needed. Reset the thermostat settings to “electric” mode. In recognition of the three-phase eel, the schematic for your unit indicates that this thermostat change should not be needed, but changing the mode on the thermostat from “fossil” to “electric” is usually trivial and making that change will probably make the failure go away. off the NC contact on the blower relay.

First check the airflow when the blower is “on”. If airflow through the registers feels weak, look for a blockage such as a clogged air filter or a clogged weather pump. Once you confirm there is no obstruction, change the blower speed setting to temporarily increase airflow based on the wiring diagram under Update #2 (you can move the connector back to its original position later) Huh). First move the blower connector from pin #6 to pin #5 to increase the blower from low to medium and then finally to pin #4 to increase the blower from medium to high. Each time the airflow is increased, check if the furnace will shut down abnormally without the coil. For normal operation, the exhaust air should be about 20F-30F warmer than room air.

If that doesn’t work, next time temporarily disconnect each of the three heating coils, one at a time. Disconnect all power before proceeding. Since you have a two-stage heater, start with the lower contactor. Disconnect W2 and turn on the heater. If you do not have W2 connected, go to the next step by installing a jumper between W1 and W2 and then removing the red wire from the top contactor. Securely isolate the disconnected wire, turn the power back on and turn on the heater. If the unit is operating with one of the heat coils, there may be a problem with that coil, but you can continue to operate at reduced capacity with the problem coil disconnected. , If any coil connected to the W1 contactor is found to be bad, leave W1 and W2 connected together and disconnect W2 from the thermostat so that all other coils burn with stage 1 heat.

If joy is still missing, you’ll have to dig a little deeper. Electric ovens usually have two important types of safety components to prevent fires. One is a high limit switch that disconnects the coils whenever a safe high temperature limit is reached and the other is an airflow switch that requires air to blow through the coils to activate them. Some units have two sets of high limits, one which is a self-resetting bimetallic device and the other which is a single-shot thermal fuse at higher temperatures, possibly wired in series with the heating elements. Although not labeled in the schematic, the safety switches included in the control circuit are indicated in your photo of diagram #1, connected in series to the gray common wire leaving the W2 contactor. If all contacts cycle at the same time despite adequate airflow, there is likely a problem with the high limit or airflow switch. Some older furnaces do not have an air flow switch and instead rely on an interconnection between the control power to the fan and the heat contacts, but since you do not have this interconnection, I would expect that your furnace has an air flow switch. In my experience, the high limit switches are most likely to go bad intermittently because they are prone to abuse when filters are not changed regularly. To clarify, if your unit is equipped with thermal fuses on each heating element except the center high limit, the thermal fuse will not be the cause of the intermittent behavior, but if present, check each element to confirm. Some parts of them do not explode due to chronic overheating.

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You’ll need to find the bad component(s) to troubleshoot and replace as needed, which I won’t go into much detail here. DO NOT…repeat..DO NOT leave the unit running unattended without any safety equipment.

I initially misread the symptoms – if the fan is actually working properly with the system, then your system is cycling at its high limit. I would check for air obstructions (like bad ducts or a dirty/too tight filter) or a sluggish fan. You can temporarily exceed the high limit for testing purposes, don’t leave the system unattended when you do this, and have an ABC or BC dry chemical extinguisher handy in case it catches fire.

As for the fan issue, this is a problem with the NC side of the fan relay – this can be bypassed by setting your thermostat from “gas” or “fossil” mode to “electric” mode, where the thermostat calls The fan is responsible for both the fan and the heat, rather than calling the oven.

If the symptoms were what I thought they were, with the fan and thermal cycling, then they would sound like a bad connection at the C (0V/return) end of the air handler blower relay – return contactor coil of both heater -reel directly to. transformer The blower relay goes to the return end instead of returning to the C (0V) end. When the G (fan) line is turned off, the connection between the gray C wire and the rest of the gray wires of the heater kit connector is not made, causing the heater not to turn on at all because the contactor is not energized. When the G (fan) line is on, the operation of the blower relay causes the faulty connection to continue for a short time before being undone again, and this cycle repeats itself as long as the blower relay remains on.

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The “click” you hear is probably the contactor itself, and is normal – short cycling is a problem. And yes, you can safely go from R to W and/or G on your unit — it won’t harm it, because that’s what the thermostat contacts do anyway. To troubleshoot, I would try measuring the voltage between the gray wire coming from the heat connector on your unit and the gray wire on the 24VAC transformer. It should be very close to 0V at all times; If it reads near 24VAC, the connection on the blower relay is not working.

PS Your air handler is actually a Nordene – the wiring diagram for a similar unit can be found here.

You have had great help with this problem, so my question would be, what is the make and model of the new thermostat? And does the clicking stop if you put a jumper on the R and W1 thermostat wires during a normal call for heat? If so, then the problem is in the thermostat. If the thermostat is the problem, it would help to know which thermostat you have. If the thermostat is not the problem, then I would look for a bad wire or a bad contactor or relay. If you have or can find the instructions for the thermostat look for the adjustable slide wire, (may be marked L for long or S for short or maybe low to high)

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