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I have an old device with no control board. It works with a sequencer. (Coleman 3500A816) Is there a way to wire it up until I can just call the fan on and not the heat either?
Mobile Home Electric Furnace Wiring Diagram
Unfortunately, you have the quirk of electric ovens in that your oven controls the fan independently with a sequencer relay, like a gas oven with thermostat/fan limitation. As a result, your electric oven does not support the original G thread. Fortunately, adding a joint a is not too difficult
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In the right place. In your case, your (or your HVAC tech of choice if you don’t want to change your furnace) is:
After connecting everything, you can turn on the system and test it with the thermostat fan switch in the AUTO position and the thermostat fan switch in the ON position, then enjoy your updated oven!
I have an electric central air heater/heating system with a constant thermostat. I replaced the thermostat without replacing it (which was a while ago) so I believe the problem is not the thermostat.
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I clearly set the left dial to “Heat” and the right dial to Auto or On. For Auto does not start (fan or heat). In On mode, the fan runs, but the heating element clicks on and off about every 3 seconds.
Does anyone know what this problem is? Also, is there a way to bypass it for now and turn on the heating element to heat the house? thank you
I removed the service plate and there are 6 basic components that I can see: 1. Dual element sliding panel – top to back. Two large black and two large red wires come out 2. One piece sliding panel – lower back. Big black and red both. 3. Contactor (?) Left front – where the thermostat wires go 4. Transformer (?) Left rear 5. Circuit breakers – front center 6. Blower motor (underneath everything) – 3 wires go to it.
OK, so the fan motor has a schematic for everything that isn’t on the front panel, including the fan relay and the 24 VAC transformer. The fan relay diagram and part number are shown in these pictures:
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Before making any internal adjustments to the unit, ensure that all main switches and/or switches supplying power to the unit are turned off. Do not attempt this job unless you are competent enough to do it safely.
If the thermostat is in “fossil” mode (the normal default), it will not activate the electric furnace fan in “auto” mode when heat is needed. Reset the thermostat to “electric” mode. In ThreePhaseEel’s recommendation, the diagram for your unit indicates that replacing this thermostat should not be necessary, but changing the thermostat mode from “fossil” to “electric” is usually trivial, and making this change will solve a possible thermostat failure. fan relay NC contacts.
First check the airflow when the fan is turned on. If the air flow from the registers seems weak, look for an obstruction, such as a blocked air filter or a closed seasonal damper. After making sure there are no obstructions, change the fan speed setting to temporarily increase airflow based on the wiring diagram in Update #2 below (you can move the connector back to its original position later). First move the fan connector from pin #6 to pin #5 to raise the fan from low to medium and then finally to pin #4 to raise from medium to high. Whenever the air flow is increased, check that the oven switches on without the radiators moving abnormally. In normal use, the exhaust air should be about 20-30 F warmer than the room air.
If that doesn’t work, temporarily disconnect each of the three heating coils one at a time. DISCONNECT ALL POWER before proceeding. Since you have a two-phase heater, start with the lower contactor. Disconnect W2 and start the heater. If you don’t have W2 connected, go to the next step by installing a jumper wire between W1 and W2, then remove the red wire from the top contactor. Isolate the disconnected wire safely, reconnect the power and turn on the heater. If the unit operates with one of the radiators disconnected, there may be a problem with that coil, but you may continue to operate at reduced capacity with the problematic radiator disconnected. . If the coil connected to contactor W1 is found to be bad, leave W1 and W2 connected together and leave thermostat W2 disconnected so that all remaining coils are ignited by stage 1 heat.
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If you still don’t have joy, you need to dig a little deeper. Electric ovens typically have two main types of safety components to prevent fire. One is an upper limit switch that disconnects the coils whenever a safe high temperature limit is reached, and the other is an airflow switch that requires air to flow through the coils to turn it on. Some units have two upper limit sets, one a self-resetting bimetallic device and the other a higher temperature thermal fuse, possibly connected in series with the heating elements. Although not marked on the diagram, the safety switches included in the control circuit can be seen in your picture of diagram #1, connected in series to the gray common wire coming from contactor W2. If all the contactors spin together despite adequate airflow, it is likely that the problem is with the upper limit or the airflow switch. Some older furnaces do not have an air flow switch and instead rely on the connection between the fan control power and the thermal contactors, but since you don’t seem to have this connection, I hope your furnace has an air flow switch. In my experience, high limit switches are most likely to go bad from time to time due to abuse when the filters are not changed regularly. To clarify, if your unit is equipped with thermal fuses on each heating element in addition to the average cap, the Thermal Fuses are not the cause of the intermittent behavior, but if present, they should be checked for each element to ensure they are not blowing due to chronic overheating.
You’ll need to find the faulty components to troubleshoot and replace if necessary, which I won’t cover here. DO NOT… REPEAT.. DO NOT leave the unit running unattended when any of the safety devices are bypassed.
At first I misunderstood the symptoms – if the fan works really well when the system is on, your system is running at its high limits. I checked for no obstructions (like bad ducts or a dirty/too tight filter) or a slow fan motor. You can also override the high limits temporarily for testing purposes, DO NOT LEAVE THE SYSTEM UNATTENDED when you do this and keep an ABC or BC extinguisher handy in case it catches fire.
As for the fan issue, this is a problem on the NC side of the fan relay – your thermostat can bypass it from “gas” or “fossil” mode to “electric” mode, where the thermostat is responsible for calling. both the fan and the heat instead of leaving the oven require a fan.
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If the symptoms were what I think they are, the fan and heat are running together, then they would sound like a bad connection at the C end of the air fan relay (0V/return) – the return from the two heaters. the contactor coils go to the ends of the fan relay instead of going directly to the C end (0V) of the transformer. When line G (fan) is off, the connection between the gray wire C coming from the heater set connector and the other gray wires is not made, so the heat does not turn on at all because the contactor does not turn on. to energize. When the G (fan) line is activated, the operation of the fan relay causes a dodgy connection to occur for a short time before it breaks again, and this cycle repeats until the fan relay is active.
The “click” you hear is most likely from the contactor itself and this is normal – the short cycle is the problem. And yes, you can safely jump from R to W and/or G on your device – it’s okay because the thermostat contacts do that anyway. Like
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