Electrical Wiring Yamaha 703 Remote Control Wiring Diagram

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Still completely unrelated to boats, but I need a place to put this. Here’s a step-by-step guide to installing a minimal Ubuntu 16.10 on a ZFS root, booted from EFI, used as an LXC host to act as Apple’s “Time Machine” destination.

Electrical Wiring Yamaha 703 Remote Control Wiring Diagram

I have a shiny new Yamaha 9.9 LEX. This was an extra long shaft (25″) model and had an electric start. It was equipped with a 703 control box. This appeared as a standard control box, largely unchanged for about 20 years, and combine the gas and shift lever with electricity to power it.

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The 703 is a big unit and I have a small cabin. More routing cables and control cables for it in some useful way would be a bit of a mission.

A post on the forums F-Boat mentions an aftermarket replacement for the mechanical side, so I looked up and found the Spinlock ATCU, a faceplate designed to fit the “Teleflex Throttle,” whatever that is. I’m not a car person, but this seems so well known it’s almost generic. I eventually found them, they are now known as Seastar Solutions, and although none of the models listed on the Spinlock site match, I found that what I wanted was the 700 SS, even though there seems to be approx. a dozen different names. , including 700SS, B700, CH2100P, TX172103, maybe TX172152 – not sure about that one.

Eventually I gave up trying to find the right parts, only agreeing on what seemed right in Force 4 buying the Spinlock plates at the same time – the theory was if I bought them together I could send them back if they didn’t ‘fit. . To be honest, I’m still not entirely sure of the product code I bought (edit 20160626 – it’s TX172103).

Everything is fine – I ditched the bezel and lever that came with the Teleflex unit. I also made a mounting plate from some scrap aluminum that I epoxy on the side of the right cabin seat (if you are considering the same thing, here is the SVG description of the plate).

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The controls themselves are very clumsy compared to the original Yamaha, and using the winch grip as a lever doesn’t really work: it’s too long and it’s too easy to push the shifter into neutral. I caved in with the special lever member from the Spinlock, which improves things a bit.

In general, the mechanical connection is quite poor compared to the original. But it is close to the path. I will try it, and if I really hate it, I still have the original unit.

The power cable running through the 703 is approximately 15mm Ø, and carries ten wires. Fortunately, given the 703 standard, cabling is very well documented. I experimented with a multimeter and these are my notes:

What is wrong? I cut the wires and closed this circuit, you can download here. It is fairly simple, and replaces the lock with three buttons: power on, ignition, and choke. There is also a switch to override the “throttle in neutral” check, which is important because I don’t have a “throttle in neutral” microswitch attached to the Teleflex unit. (Edit 20160905 – I’m not sure of the part number for this but it’s a “Teleflex 178000”. Available from a local candle for £25, the kit appears to include some connectors, two machine screws and one “XGG2-88Z1 “. microswitch” , available from a local electronics wholesaler for £2.33 How I like naval prices.

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Everything is switched manually (ok, via MOSFET) – I don’t want to debug software while I float in the lee shore. The only nod to the computer world is that I can report device status back to the computer, including alarm status and engine RPM (untested), and I can enable/disable the “kill switch” electronically. This allows me to disable the engine when I set the alarm on the boat, for example. I can also detect if the car is disconnected from the computer, allowing me to sound an alarm if someone tries to pinch it!

To install, I cut a hole in the rear wall of the cabin in the rear cabin, and epoxy it in the IP65 rated box using Western System G-Flex epoxy. I thought plain epoxy was bad: it’s disgusting, but it definitely sticks to plastic. Faired, painted, added some IP65 rated buttons and a matching IP65 cable gland on the back, and it worked the first time. All cables run inside the rear cabin to the connectors at the rear of the boat.

The last bit actually connects all of these things to the car. I have two mechanical cables (groove and gearshift – these are “Teleflex Morse 33C” type cables), two 16mm² power cables and 8 x control cables measuring about 1.5mm², but I still want to remove the motor for safety and relatively easy maintenance – something that was not possible with the original Yamaha 703 control box (edit: to clarify, although the control cables can be easily removed, the battery cables need to be removed from under the cover).

Imagine my surprise when this was possible, with something called the Andersen SPEC Pak. This kit includes Andersen Powerpole connectors for high current cables (the one I bought was rated for 75A), plus a number of other smaller sized cables, all in one IP68 rated plug! It’s a bit of a beast but it’s also the only game in town.

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Assembly is a bit difficult, and (possibly due to some misalignment) the plug doesn’t snap into the socket as easily as I would have hoped. I need to give it a good push – I guess I’ll see if it stays connected on the sea route. To my surprise, the wires on the Yamaha control cables are not tinned copper – they are wet parts of the boat, so I covered the connectors with liquid electrical tape before assembly, as I did not want the cables to rust. I also added some Butyl Rubber to seal. This is a bad idea, and I think it contributes to my poor fit. Do not do that.

Some bundles of cables were collected from the office, and I have a very good connection with the car.

I had two Andersen Powerpole connectors left so I crimped them on a piece of 16mm² cable with an M6 ring at the other end. This will make it easier to run the car in the test rig.

It is important to limit the resistance of the high current wires – an ohm or two makes no difference when you move to milliamps, but if you move 100A this is bad news. All connections increase resistance, it is inevitable. So I measured the battery cables to 16mm², and dipped them in Noalox before crimping. The starter motor on the Yamaha 9.9LEX is rated for 600W, which is 50A at 12V, and making some allowance for transmission losses, I size everything up to 80A, give or take.

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With the battery finally installed this week, I had a chance to start the engine and check those numbers. With dry cylinder and battery at 13.3V the engine only draws 17A! No doubt, it will rise once I fuel the engine and put it in the water, but I am very sure that everything is fine.

Another great idea I pinched from the comments on the F-Boat mailing list is hooking up the tiller and motor. This should greatly improve maneuverability at low speeds.

Searching “relation patch tiller” brought a few drawings, which I let rot in my head for a few weeks. There are two practical bolts that secure the tiller to the steering wheel, and piggybacking on these will save me from having to drill another hole. I did some prototyping and came up with this design:

I also added a Raymarine M81105 steering angle sensor, because I got a good price for it used. Too much? Yes, I have heard of it. I have a bracket (PDF or DXF) made from 2mm 316SS to fit my existing bolts. The axle and pushrod are just M6 threaded rods coupled with some M6 clevis joints, again courtesy of eBay. Before launching, I would grind wire from unused branches as the equipment tends to catch in wire. The plate is 6mm aluminum plate, anodized and bolted to the machine.

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The plates are bolted in place, but the pushrods can be removed by tilting the engine up – you simply slide the pushrods up and over the “pins” (bolts and loose threads) that attach.

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