Electric Temperature Gauge Wiring Diagram

Electric Temperature Gauge Wiring Diagram – As with all content on this website, you can click on any image to view it at its largest size. This way we can keep a clear definition so you can see the details more easily. If the image is too big to see everything on your screen, all you have to do is hold control and move the mouse wheel up and down to resize!

Most people include the electrical and fuel system stuff on their motorcycle stand. That’s all well and good, but imagine being able to wheel a cart to any vehicle or motorcycle stand, wherever it is? This 30″ x 35″ starter car has a relatively small footprint while offering the versatility to be used with ease with a railcar, newly restored chassis or any vehicle you have. Roll it up, make connections and you’re in business. We’ve added fuel capacity to give you everything you need to troubleshoot both the fuel system and the electrical system.

Electric Temperature Gauge Wiring Diagram

The best way to approach a project like this is to decide how we want it to work, look and feel before we start. This is where the solution criteria come into play. I have this policy to set resolution criteria no matter how hard it is to meet.

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The nice thing about manufacturing is of course that you can do it your way. Finally, if you have a nice rolling cart with a solid console and a place to store some batteries, you’re good to go. Why few batteries? You may be in a situation where the truck battery needs charging or is 6 volts, and the new battery you are replacing is 12 volts or needs charging or testing. I made this cart a while ago and am only now describing how to make it, so forgive me if I leave out some details. Ask as many questions as you want.

Start by cutting a piece of sheet metal from 1/4″ to 27″ x 30 to create a sturdy and square platform. Then cut 4 of the 1″ square tubes each 35″ long. Cut two 24-1/4″ pieces of 1×1 as filler to complete the platform. Now take two of the 35″ and place them across the 27″ width of the platform. Measure at 35″, 4″ from each end so they are perfectly centered. Clamp the outer piece tightly to the platform piece at each end. Make sure the same 4 in. extends out of the platform. Place a caster on top (upside down) and flush it 1 in. with the outside, then place your other 2, 2″ so that it is on the inside. Mark and drill all the caster holes for drilling and screw the casters to the rails as shown.

Once they are securely bolted to the 1 inch rails, weld them to the platform. Follow proper welding procedures to clean both surfaces, remove mill scale, and bond items so that the metal does not warp. In the end, you should have a nice, rolling platform. Now install the 1 inch by 24-1/4 inch long pieces in another dimension to complete a nice 1 inch boxed structure under the slab. The reason it’s always a good idea to read these instructions all the way through before cutting is because this 24-1/4″ size can change if you have wheels with shorter bolt patterns. Hope you get started !

The next step is to make the two sides as shown. The frame is made of 1 inch square tubing with a metal extruded screen inside. Start by cutting four pieces, the first on the left is 10 inches, the second on the top is 16-3/4 inches, the third on the bottom is 21 inches. To determine the size of the last, lay your pieces on the table and square them up really well, then place your last one inch piece across the corner and mark both ends. It’s very close to 10 inches, but don’t rush it. Once you cut the corner on each end you will have a frame as shown. Weld the frame and make sure it lays flat so it comes out nice and square. Repeat this paragraph so that you have two identical frames.

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I found a scrap piece of this metal screen and thought it would be nice to be able to see into the cart. If you think it’s too frivolous for you, just take out the inside of your frame and use a regular 3/32″ plate. If not, I thought it added a bit of personality to the project. Whatever you use , place the frame on the material, and trace the inside with a marker, then weld the material in place, then we want to weld the frame to the cart.

For the placement of these frames it is important that we place them in such a way that you have the full 9 inch battery width and some room to move. Designate one of the 27″ sides of your cart as the front, then measure 9-1/4″ from the front. This is where you will place the front of the two frames you made. It’s okay if the frame sticks out a bit at the back. Square up your frame to weld it in place. I like those 6″ welding magnets for this, but whatever you use, the frame needs to be nice and straight and level.

At the front of the cart, frame to frame, we want to cut a 27″ by 10″ piece of sheet metal 3/32″ and weld it securely in place. I used 1/4″ sheet on mine, but for structural plate you can. What is is good. Once that plate is welded and your frame is secured, cut three pieces of 1/4″ by 9″ by 10″ sheet metal on the sides and center of the battery box. 1/4″ thick is better for this. Because it has to be very strong, because we only fasten it on two sides. Use a large coffee pot or whatever you can find to round one side of the two plates as shown. Weld the sides as shown. The middle has a slightly different profile.

You will see in the right picture that this battery compartment contained a 2.5 cm square tube, but that was not necessary at all and was of no use. If you weld them straight and true, you have a very nice sturdy car. Do you see your work starting to take shape? I love it when a plan comes together! Now we need to make the top shelf…

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The top shelf measures 27 inches by 18 inches. Cut your sheet metal to 26-3/4″ by 17-3/4″. Then make a nice border around it with a 1/8″ x 1-1/2″ angle iron. Cut your angle iron pieces with 45 on the ends like a picture frame. Do this carefully so that you get a nice lip around the shelf. Weld your new shelf into place using the angled sides of the back of the carriage as your guide, as shown.

At the back of the cart we need to have two 2 inch square tubes in each corner. These will serve as receivers for our gas tank and our console. and drill a 1/2″ hole 3 in. on one side. Thread a 1/2″ nut onto the 1/2″ bolt to the head. Clamp the bolt in the hole and weld the nut to your 2. in. Remove the bolt then make sure. Test to see if you can tighten/loosen by hand. This acts as a hold-down for the 1-1/2″ mast that goes into it. Since gravity does most of the work, I thought only one bolt/nut combination was needed on each receiver. Place 2 in. as shown with the bolts facing out on each side and weld it in place.

Now cut two 1-1/2″ square tubes with 3/32″ sidewalls. Cut one of them to 24″, the other to 32″. Place the 24″ within 2″ of the front of the carriage on the right side. The receiver is your gas tank mast. Place the 32″ on the left. High is your console mast. Tighten the bolt to ensure you can tighten it securely. This is important for grounding purposes. The way you mount your gas tank to the top of the 24″ mast depends on the gas tank hardware you have, mine is as pictured, but yours may be different.

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