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I am working on adding a 7500 watt electric heater to my garage and am wondering how to hook up an external dual thermostat.
Electric Space Heater Wiring Diagram
What worries me is that on the double pole thermostats I see they have an amp rating that is lower than my electric heater amp at 220V.
Garage Heater Thermostat
So my guess is that the flow of bipolar amplifiers is for users who have line/serial power for their electric heaters but still want a graphics display.
Since the thermostat is double pole, I don’t have to worry about current going to the thermostat.
My interpretation of the wiring diagram and the purpose of the system is to have my external 220V bipolar thermostat powered by 220V 100mA from L1 and L2 or whatever low power (ie an electrical front end with display buttons) and then I connect c “load” from the thermostat to 1 and 2, which then turns on the thermostat and the rotary dial is set to the maximum temperature of the device.
I think line 1 and 2 would be something like 14 awg and just carry a little current to the switch to turn on the radiator thermostat.
Kw Baptistry Water Heating System
Am I wrong? Will ~31.5A somehow flow through my bipolar thermostat and I need to find a heavier thermostat? (My understanding is that if you have a simple base heater and put a thermostat in series, the current goes through your thermostat).
I was actually expecting to see four wires on the external thermostat with L1, L2, 1 and 2. When I open the back panel of the radiator do I find four wires or do I have to wire somehow with 14 awg on L1 and L2? too?
Am I completely free here? (Yes, I’d also like to convert 220V to 24V DC and add a third Nest thermostat to the house, but first I want to make sure I understand the original purpose of the wiring here).
An electronic voltage thermostat will work with your heater if you wire it as shown on the heater wiring diagram because that arrangement provides only one line leg to the thermostat location, leaving the thermostat with a convenient way to return its own operating power. source. You either need to connect L2 to the thermostat box and only the L1 side wire to the heater, which requires thermostat to thermostat to run 14/3, or use an electromechanical thermostat instead of an electronic one. The good news is that at least the thermostat won’t change a lot of power, so the power doesn’t matter.
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The large and small boxes labeled KM in the circuit diagram are part of the relay that carries all the current for the coils, any linear voltage thermostat will be able to transfer current from the control circuit.
The thermostat can be wired with #14 because the UL listing instructions allow it. My guess is that there is some internal fuse / fuse that is not shown in the diagram.
I don’t know the full Nest line, you would need a model with a separate control voltage or have to build one.
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Lasko Cd08200 Fuse Replacement
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For people who prefer to see an actual wiring diagram or diagram when connecting a room thermostat, these pictures are provided here to help you understand what wires are connected and what each wire does.
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Above Left: Chromalox Heat Flo Thermostat Kit Wiring Diagram (1 of 2) for Chromalox HeatFlo® Model KUH-TK3 and KUH-TK4, used only with KUH-02 through KUH-45 heaters.
Electrical Room Heater Wiring
Below: Chromalox Thermostat Kit HVH-TK6 and HVH-TK6 for field installation on Chromalox HVH-02 through HVH-15 heaters only. Additional wiring diagrams are provided in the Chromalox HeatFlow Installation Manuals below.
Headquartered in Pittsburgh, PA, USA, Chromalox Corporation has offices worldwide and manufacturing facilities in USA (Utah and Tennessee), Nuevo Laredo, Mexico, Soissons, France, Wujiang, China and Edmonton, Canada.
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You can only add one image per comment, but you can post as many comments and therefore images as you want. You will not receive a notification when the answer to your question is published. My workshop is heated with a wood stove. It was like this when I bought it and probably installed it when the shop was built in 1980.
As part of that initiative, I recently installed an electric stove in the workshop. I chose the 6000W ceiling model. This particular heater has a built in switch and thermostat.
Caution, Figure 4. Removal Of Front Cover, Figure 3. Removal Of End Cap
The workshop was already wired with a 50 Amp 240V 8 gauge conductor, so I chose a 240V heater. The heater manufacturer recommends that the switch be used as a heater circuit breaker and not dependent on the heater’s built-in thermostat.
The thermostat is set to the desired temperature. When the temperature is below this point, a relay inside the thermostat closes and 24VAC current flows to the contactor coil. This turns on the coil, turns on the 240V circuit and turns on the heater. When the temperature rises above the set point, a relay inside the thermostat opens, turning off the 24VAC signal to the contact coil and turning off the heater.
There are actually two options for thermostats. One is a 240V thermostat installed and connected to the line voltage. Another is to use a standard radiator thermostat and connect a low voltage source and relay.
I chose the latter, using a 240V, 40A power source, a 24VAC transistor and a thermostat. The contact is actually a relay. A low-voltage alternating current is used to energize the coil, which turns on the contactor and provides high-voltage current.
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Connecting the connector is relatively simple. I chose a 2-pole connector that breaks both legs of the 240V circuit. The line side is connected to the lower pins of the contactor. The load side is connected to the upper pin of the connector.
I used a 240V input/24VAC output transformer. The transformer is powered and connected to the line side of the switch. A transformer steps down the voltage from 240VAC to 24VAC. The output side of the transformer is connected to the contactor coils. The thermostat breaks the positive side of the 24VAC circuit, allowing it to turn on or control a contact. Here is what the wiring actually looks like (Note that the thermostat is located on the outside of the tow box and is not shown in the pictures below. It is connected to the red and white bell wires):
This is the friction. The line conductors and power leads of the transformer are connected to the base. Load conductors are connected at the top. The positive 24VAC pin from the transformer is connected to the right and the negative to the left.
This is the transformer. Designed for three input voltages: 120V (white wire), 208V (red wire) and 240V (orange wire). 240V input voltage is the orange wire. The other voltage inputs, the red and white wires, are thermally taped off because they are not in use. The 240V power wires are connected to the bottom of the transformer. 24 VAC output, above the transformer in the picture.
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