Electric Motor Brake Wiring Diagram – New wiring with new relay part number LC2D1211.. Note: The replacement relay supplied by Thern is a similar and improved contact pattern but differs from the old relay part number LC2D1201. The new relay is not wired like the old relay and the new winch wiring is described below. This relay can be used without the “AUX” contact at the top of the relay, because the additional NC contact in each relay section provides electrical cross-locking functionality.
Overcurrent Relay is Telemecanique LR2-D13 in assembly LA7-D1064 (Note: ILR stands for InterLockingRelay and OCR stands for Overcurrent Relay.)
Electric Motor Brake Wiring Diagram
E) Note: AC Neutral is not used in this controller. NC (insert the cable into the input terminal pin 3 or else the head is dead.
Connection Motor Phases And Holding Brake (cn10 And Cn11)
B) WHITE in the hanging wire to the relay A, phase 01NC (lower 01 screw) in the interlock relay. Look at the ink mark “A” on the top of the relay section A.
C) BLACK in the pendant wire to relay B, phase 01NC (Upper 01 screw) in the interlock relay. Look at the ink mark “B” on the top of the relay section B.
4) Motor / brake assembly, Baldor Motor Cat# CWDL3510, Spec# 35J306X945, brake model and supplier unknown. The wiring in the motor junction box is as follows.
5) The cables for the motor and brake are as follows: (Note: ILR LC2C1211 part A is the end closest to the 220VAC input power supply. Part B is the end closest to the bottom of the NEMA box.
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D) The white wire of the motor goes to the overcurrent relay pin 6-T3 which is located to the right of the interlocking relay on the NEMA panel.
A) Terminal Pin 1 (L1), main power (BLACK) > xfmr pin H1 > ILR-A3-L2 NO > ILR B3-L2 NO (220vac input L1)
B) Terminal Pin 2 (L2), main power (RED) > xfmr pin H4 > ILR-A5-L3 > ILR-B5-L3 > B13-NO > A-13-NO (220vac input L2)
Note: The 120vac brake line is routed from Baldor Wire 1 to the junction of wires 2 and 3. A schematic of the motor, clutch and controller is shown below.
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Some of the drawings may contain the above errors. The solution is done and the main relay drawing and wiring list shows the diagram. Connect the relay to fix it. The motor is designed for operation through a frequency converter. Connecting the motor directly to AC voltage will damage the motor and may cause a fire or explosion.
There may be high voltage at the motor connection. The motor itself generates voltage when the motor shaft is rotated. AC voltage can connect the voltage to the unused conductors in the motor wiring.
O Check that there is no voltage before doing any work on the drive system.
O Block the motor shaft to prevent rotation before performing any work on the drive system.
Self (dc Ac) Brake Three Phase Motors
O Reinforce the motor cable with an additional protective earth conductor to the motor housing if the protective earth conductor of the motor cable is insufficient.
O Verify compliance with all local and national electrical codes, as well as all other applicable codes regarding grounding of all equipment.
O Confirm the protective isolation between the brake voltage in the motor and the motor line, and the motor phase.
The drive system can perform unintended movements if the combination of drive and motor is not approved. Although the connector for connecting the motor and the sensor connection may match mechanically, this does not mean that the motor is approved for use.
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Route the wires from the motor and sensor to the unit (starting from the motor). Since the connector is pre-assembled, this direction is often faster and easier.
The conductors must have a large enough cross-section so that the fuse connected to the main can be activated if necessary.
O The brake cable must be connected to the CN11 connector for non-braked motors. At the end of the motor, connect the wire to the correct pins for holding the brake; The cable can then be used for motors with or without holding brakes. If you don’t connect the wires at the motor end, you have to wire each wire individually (inductive voltage).
O The voltage for the holding brake depends on the 24 Vdc control supply (PELV). Observe the tolerance for the 24 Vdc control supply and the specified voltage for the brake, see chapter 24 Vdc Control Supply.
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O Use pre-assembled cables to reduce the risk of wiring errors, see accessories and spare parts section.
The motor’s optional brake is connected to the CN11 connector. The integrated brake controller releases the held brake when the power stage is activated. When the power-off procedure is applied, the holding brake is applied again.
3 Secure the shielded cable with a heat sink. The shield must have a length of at least D. Check that the large area of the shield braid is connected to the EMC shield clamp. Reduce the wire for the holding brake to length B and the three wires for the motor phase to length C. The earth conductor with length A. Connect the wire for the holding brake to the service unit for the motor without holding brake (inductive voltage. ).
Note the maximum allowed cross-section links. Take into account the fact that cable ends (ferrules) increase cable cutting.
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A short circuit between the motor phase and the DC bus, brake resistor or brake cable is not detected.
O Connect the motor phase and ground wire to CN10. Check that the connections U, V, W and PE (ground) match the motor and the unit.
O Connect the white or black wire labeled 5 to the BR+ connector on CN11. Black & Decker has produced corded lawn mowers with suitable cords (eg LM175, MM275, MM575 models). My parents and I own a total of 3 of these clippers and really like it. Although they have provided good service over the years, like all products they have their weaknesses. This page discusses the repair of these electric lawn mowers.
In general, corded electric lawn mowers are very simple devices. Not counting the wheels, the Black & Decker model contains only 2 moving parts: the electric motor and the electric switch unit. The electrical system consists of only 3 parts: the motor, the switching unit and the standard bridge rectifier.
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The motors used in these clippers are exactly the type of motors you would expect to find in a treadmill. In fact, these motors were probably originally built/designed for treadmills. The motor is a permanent magnet DC motor, which is designed to run approx. 120 volts DC.
The power supply of the mower is 120 Volt AC “standard household current”. AC-DC conversion is achieved using a bridge rectifier, which is just 4 diodes packed into a box. The connectors used in these trimmers are mostly in the MB or GBPC series, with 4 “faston” connectors for the leads and a single screw hole in the center for mounting to the heatsink. The maximum output from the rectifier is about 170 Volts DC from 120 Volts AC input.
The switch assembly consists of an inlet power connector and a push button. The switch is Double Pole, Single Throw (DPST), and is an action switch. This means that the switch controls two circuits separately and when circuit #1 is “on”, circuit #2 is “off”, and vice versa. In addition, the switch has an area around the middle where both circuits are “closed” to prevent shorting through the bridge rectifier.
Circuit #1 controlled by the switch is the connection of the “hot” AC line to the bridge rectifier. Circuit #2 controlled by the switch is the connection of the motor + and – terminals. That is, when circuit #2 is “open”, it intentionally creates a short across the motor terminals. This provides what is called “plug braking”, which is electric braking of the engine. This is done because, for safety reasons, it is desirable to make the motor stop rotating as soon as possible after the handle switch is released. Although the method of the short dead motor to perform plug braking is questionable, it works.
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The wiring diagram above applies to most Black & Decker corded lawn mowers. The 4 wires that run through the dashed line represent the wires that go from the switching unit down to the cutting unit. Note that the light blue line is white in the clippers.
Based on our family’s experience with our 3 circuit breakers, it appears that these models are prone to two types of faults: switch assembly faults or bridge rectifier circuit faults.
Switch assembly can be problematic in 2 ways. First, the switch itself can go bad due to melting/failure in contact. This is a function of age and is somewhat expected due to the high current flowing through what appears to be a moderate switch. Another is a loose/dissolved input connector and/or wire between the connector and the switch. This can happen due to bad connections (eg cheap extension cords), corrosion on plug pins, etc. Again, high current in the clipper only exacerbate these problems.
Bridge rectifier can
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