Electric Dryer Samsung Dryer Heating Element Wiring Diagram

Electric Dryer Samsung Dryer Heating Element Wiring Diagram – Hey what happened to you Tim with Fred’s Appliance with another great video for you today. In this video we will show you a 240 volt Frigidaire electric dryer with a mechanical timer and I will teach you how to go through the schematic and how to read the schematic and understand the schematic when the video is over and done . circuits for heaters and motors, you will control things and be flexible when you go out.

And believe it or not, many technologies have a hard time following these regulations. It’s like a road map and everything leads to one area or another. You just have to see it that way. However, even veteran technicians like me, or my trainers, some of my relatives on the road, as well as some novice technicians, have a hard time reading the all-important wiring diagram. Very much in this field if you really want to try to understand what’s going on and you don’t want to be the kind of technology that you go to “Yes, it needs X, Y and Z, and ABC.”

Electric Dryer Samsung Dryer Heating Element Wiring Diagram

Usually on one device you find a problem and sometimes you find more than one, but usually it is a problem. So we’re going to get to this point and we’re going to see how we turn down our heaters and how we bring power to our engines. But I want to focus here on some different parts of the scheme, such as our fabric picker, some of our words and the meaning of the symbols on our scheme. But we will focus on our bar chart, which is called Esterline chart by engineers. So we see this and we have some shady spots and we have different times and it’s time to automatically dry and we have some circuits here. In fact, the circuit is for timing. So if we look at the schematic, this is not a timer, this is the whole unit. This is all that is in the unit. And what you will find is different correspondence.

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So let’s give an example of our heat, which is our first type, B and A. Now, if we look at B and A, and if a customer says: “Hey, in my automatic drying cycle, my clothes are still wet.. . it’s not dry at all.” Unit. So you will be behind it Check your terminal block. Make sure you have a good connection, you have no broken or melted wires in the back. And then also when you remove the unit, you must separate B and A on your timer, see the plug end Make sure it is not too hot. It will indicate that something is happening in the store.

So please remove the unit. And the first thing we’re going to do is we’re going to position now and separate from B and A, this is a very good thing that’s happening today with the way technology has evolved since I started. You are probably new to the game here and really don’t know how to read the schedule or where the actual line goes. Take a picture of the wiring with your smartphone with your tablet. So there you can always remember and see where that thread goes so that no thread goes anywhere.

So if we look at our automatic drying cycle, these markers here in this 31.7 minute automatic drying cycle indicate that the B and A contacts on the timer are now closed. Where it opens up here, these shady areas where they’re just clear, that means the relationship is open, and that would be what’s called our cool mode. Our dry season has the same thing. We have our mark throughout the cycle, except for about the last 10 to 15 minutes of the cycle, it will continue to advance, it will cool down and allow cold air to enter so we don’t get slammed. Noise on our rollers We do not carry bearings or overheating equipment as it is. It also protects the fabric of your clothes.

So we’d like to go ahead and connect our meters to B and A with some straps, that’s the easiest way to do it. So you try not to hold your meter and you try to turn on the timer at the same time to see if B and A are actually on during that part of the cycle. So I’m going to connect my crocodile to B and A and I’m going to run the timer slowly in the hot cycle. It can’t be wind or ripples or cold cycle. It should be on the heating cycle. And I’m going to slowly turn that timer on and I should have a resume that means less than one ohm or on my meter it’s going to beep indicating that the connection is closed.

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So while we run it slowly, and if we can get to the end, then we know about the last 10 to 15 minutes that our timer is not a problem when it comes to no heat in the engine. So that’s really our heat cycle. Then that’s B and A. I’ll show you that on the timer… or according to the schedule here and how we get real power to that heater. But I want to continue and continue with this Esterline card and I want to go to B and C which will be for motorbikes. And the heater and the motor in this video are the two main focus things that we want to see and that we really want to check, so that you can know how the power gets there with 240 volts.

Now when you turn your dryer on after each cycle you can see in the Esterline table that contacts B and C are closed throughout the cycle. It doesn’t open until it reaches our actual closing position. So you can see the cracks there. So if you have doubts when a customer says, “Hey, my dryer, I really think it shuts off too fast, sometimes I catch it where it goes through the whole cycle. Or sometimes I just find Look, it’s just shut off .” Well, you would disconnect the B and C separators on your timer, and you would proceed to see if it was fully open at any time. Cycle. If you have to, you should know your timing problem, if not, we will have to look elsewhere. That is our Esterline card.

Some of the other things that we actually have here on the schematic, the one that’s called our dust picker here, will be the settings on your dashboard for high heat, medium heat, low heat or no heat. However, this one is labeled as normal, low or windy. And on the back of the switch itself, so if you have to take the control panel down after you have disconnected the unit, you will be able to see that there is a real number on each terminal there. So if we want normal heat, which is our high heat and most other dryers, we will look for contacts one and two and X indicates that those contacts are closed that we will have a very dry heat in the circuit that’ t we choose. .

To get low heat you will see that contacts one and two, four and five are actually x-ed out, which means it is off and you will get low heat. So a real bicycle thermostat that will be in this mechanical style dryer with a timer that will run a little faster, keeping the temperature inside the drum closer to the lower temperature we want at higher temperatures. Our dry scheduler. . That is our fabric selection tool.

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We’re going to move you over here and show you some of these cable codes that we have. Wiring codes If we look in the right corner of our diagram we can see these codes here and this is what tells us the meaning of everything on the timer here. So you look at the quick disconnect terminal. You see a connection that looks like a splicer or T connection, there is no connection.

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