Central Electric Furnace Model Eb15b Wiring Diagram

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I have an electric central air/heat system with a standard thermostat. The thermostat didn’t change (which was a while ago) so I don’t think it’s the thermostat that is causing the problem.

Central Electric Furnace Model Eb15b Wiring Diagram

We will obviously set the left clock to “Smart” and the right clock to Auto or On. Pro Auto does not come (fan or heater). When On, the fan runs and the heating element clicks on and off approximately every 3 seconds.

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Does anyone know what this problem is? Also, is there a way I can control it for now and just have the heating element turn on to heat the house? Thank you

I have removed the access plate and there are 6 basic elements I can see: 1. Two element said on the top back panel. There are two large black and two large red wires coming out of 2. Each insert on the board – bottom back. A big black and red. 3. Contactor (?) front left – where the thermostat wires go 4. Transformer cable (?) back left 5. Wall circuit – front center 6. Motor motor (below everything) – 3 wires go into it.

OK, so there’s a schematic diagram of everything that isn’t on the front panel, including the circuit breaker and 24VAC transformer. The board and serial number portion are not shown in these photos:

Before making any adjustments to the interior of the device, ensure that all main switches and/or circuit breakers supplying the device are turned off. Do not attempt this work unless you are experienced enough to do it safely.

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If the thermostat is in “fossil” mode (the usual default), it will not go to “auto” when the electric oven calls for heat. Reconfigure the settings on the thermostat to “electric” mode. In recognition of ThreePhaseEel, the schematic for your unit indicates that this thermostat change is not necessary, but changing the thermostat from “fossil” to “electric” is generally easy, and making that change creates a possible malfunction rectified. the NC contacts in the course CERAUL.

Check the airflow first when the washing machine is “ON”. If the airflow from the books feels weak, look for a clog that may be stuck in the air filter or blocked by moisture from time to time. After verifying that there are no obstacles, change the fan speed setting to increase the airflow until the time indicated in the wiring diagram under Update #2 (the power connector will later return to its original state). First I connect pin #6 to pin #5 to increase the pin from low to medium, then finally to #4 to increase from medium to high. Each time the output is increased, it is checked if the furnace will stop running abnormally without the orbs. For normal operation, the mission air should be about 20F-30F warmer than the room air.

If not, disconnect each of the three heating circuits one by one. I have all the power in advance. Since you have two heating levels, start with the bottom switch. Disconnect W2 and light the heater. If you didn’t connect W2, go to the next step by placing a jumper wire between W1 and W2, then removing a red wire from the top contactor. Disconnect the safety wire, turn the power back on and the heater will turn on. If the unit is operating with one heat exchanger disconnected, there may be a problem with that coil, but you may continue to have reduced capacity with the disconnected coil problem. . If one of the coils connected to switch W1 is determined to be faulty, W1 and W2 will remain connected and W2 will remain disconnected from the thermostat, so all other coils will ignite with stage 1 heat.

If I’m still not happy, I’ll have to dig a little deeper. Electric ovens usually have two types of safety switches to prevent fires. One is a high limit switch that turns off the coils when a safe temperature is reached and the other is an air flow switch that needs air to flow to the coils in order to operate. Some units have two high limit connections, one a bimetallic self-resetting device and the other a thermal fuse that releases at higher temperature, possibly connected in series with heating elements. Although not labeled in the schematic, the safety switches in the circuit are indicated in Photo #1, in series with the common gray wire exiting contactor W2. If all the contacts are cycling together, despite adequate airflow, there is likely a massive bile barrier or an airflow transition. Some older ovens don’t have an airflow pass through and instead connect the power to the fan and heat contacts together, but since yours doesn’t seem to connect these, I’d like your oven to have a flow through. In my experience, high limit switches occasionally go bad because they take abuse if the filters are not replaced regularly. To be clear, if your unit is equipped with fuses in every heater except central hight mode, then the fuses are not the reason for the behavior stopping, but if they are present, each element should be checked to confirm. part of it does not inflate for a long time in the heat.

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You must find the bad component(s) through troubleshooting and replacement requirements, which I will not discuss in more detail here. DO NOT…REPEAT. Do not run the unit without any safety equipment.

I’ve posted the initial symptoms – if the fan is indeed working correctly with the system ON, then your system is running at high limits. Air obstructions (such as a bad or dirty/too tight filter) or a slowly rotating fan. You can also temporarily skip the high test limits, DO NOT LEAVE THE SYSTEM UNEXPECTED when doing this, and keep a dry chemical or BC fire extinguisher handy in case it starts to smoke.

As for the fan setting, that’s the current with the NC portion of the fan’s life – this can be bypassed by turning the thermostat from “gas” or “fossil” mode to “electric” mode, where the thermostat is responsible for calling. Both the fan and the heat pump are called the furnace fan.

If the symptoms were what I thought they would be, with the fan and heater together, I would have a faulty connection sound in C (0V/return), no air at the end of the inspiratory – the return of both heaters. the switch circuits continue to the return end of the POWER instead of returning directly to the C (0V) end of the transformer. When line G (fan) is gone, the connection between the gray wire C from the heater connection kit and the rest of the gray wires is not made, so the heater does not come on at all because the contactor does not activate. If the G(an) line is stuck, the Clerk operation makes the connection active for a short time before breaking it again, and this cycle repeats as long as there is no Clerk.

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The “click” you hear is most likely the switch itself, and that’s normal – a short circuit is the problem. And yes, you can safely jump from R to W and/or G on your unit – it can’t hurt, because that’s what thermostats do anyway. As for the troubleshooting question, I made sure to measure the voltage between the gray wire coming out of the heater kit connected to your unit and the gray wire going to the 24VAC transformer. 0V should always be close by; if it says 24VAC next to it, the connection to the charger is not working.

PS Your air handler is really Nordyna – the wiring diagram for a similar unit can be found here.

You got a lot of help with this problem so my question is what make and model is the new thermostat? And if you put a sweater over the wires of the thermostat R and W1 during normal calling, does the heating stop clicking? If there is a problem with the thermostat. If it’s a thermostat, it may help to know what the thermostat is. If the thermostat isn’t the problem, I would expect a bad wire or bad contact or nothing. If you have or find instructions for the thermostat, look for an adjustable sliding cable (marked L for longer or S for shorter or perhaps from low to high.

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