Bmw Electric Water Pump Wiring Diagram – B) I think it is important to tell the symptoms of BSD problems for modern petrol engines.
Patient: E9X, with N55 series petrol engine. Problems – also a new AGM battery, coded twice (“just to be safe”), the battery was coded a second time, after some time the first described problems appeared), but still – the battery was on the verge of “breakdown”. .
Bmw Electric Water Pump Wiring Diagram
One morning the car owner, opening the car, noticed that the water pump started working immediately and after a while the car was blocked. Soon after the appearance of this sign, problems with the supply of electricity began.
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In the DME error message memory – all possible error messages related to the BSD data network.
And now, if the BSD data network “dies”, that’s a short story about the consequences that cars with N-series petrol engines can suffer.
If the water pump does not receive the BSD command (boost – required flow), it will start working in emergency mode, with power – at maximum. This is done for the purpose – not to allow the engine to overheat. BSD does not know if the water pump is damaged, when the engine starts and when it stops; Start working now, the supply voltage is given.
And in this picture: IC IC Block diagram of a typical LIN driver (electronic hub: to communicate with the “outside world”):
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These LIN drivers are available in every LIN client and master. If some units lose their supply voltage, the LIN drivers of this unit are passive and do not disturb the entire LIN network.
If for some reason the drive fails to boot (for example, the drive’s MCU clock generator is damaged), the LIN drivers are also in a “flexible” state and do not interfere with other clients’ communication.
The only reason the LIN driver can cripple other clients’ communication is damage to the TXD (transmit) transistor (damage to the TXD buffer is theoretically possible, but very, very unlikely).
In the block diagram, the transistor that causes all LIN clients to “hang” is marked. Another note:
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A) If only the transistor is damaged, the LIN signal oscillogram will show a maximum voltage of 0.5 .. 0.8 V (the voltage drop across the diode, connected to the transistor drain).
B) If the diode in series with the transistor is broken, the LIN signal will never appear.
Such a defect is not common, because LIN drivers are safe (their output transistors can withstand a voltage of 50V in the LIN line, up to 1000V static discharge of the human model). I can only imagine a possible cause of damage – probably: The signal (amplitude can reach several hundred V; for ignition coil – also high dU/dt) injectors or ignition coils reached the LIN data line.
The same problems were observed: in this way, for example, the NOx sensors of the CAN lines were damaged, as well as the exhaust temperature sensors. Unfortunately, BMW did not consider increased voltage wiring or double insulation for the ignition wires or needles.
Starters & Alternators
By reducing the amplitude to 500 mV/division, we see that the signal amplitude is approximately 0.8 V (instead of the required 12 V).
Yes, this time the bad LIN driver was in the water pump – when the water pump was unplugged, the signal level in the BSD network became correct.
Also checking the rise/fall time of the BSD signal, decision – correct (no “semi-phase” signal, no gain)
Finally, back to the water pump and BSD issues. If the water pump is not receiving commands via the BSD, it will always operate (as mentioned above) as if it were receiving power. The power of these pumps can reach 500 .. 700 W (depending on the model). As a result, the current consumption can reach 50A or more. Also – BSD doesn’t work, DME doesn’t get (doesn’t calculate) power, it stays in battery. When the car is repaired, the water pump stops working (the 30th bus is disconnected), when the voltage at the DME/CAS reaches the minimum critical level – such an emergency situation is expected if the IBS system fails . It doesn’t work or it doesn’t work. Even a suitable (and fully charged) battery discharges very quickly.
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The fuel consumption of my car has increased, but the DME does not record any error messages. Where could be the problem? I have a 2008 335xi-N54, experiencing 2acb/2acc on my 335xi with the same JB layout. I’m seriously considering replacing JB and hope that fixes it.
I’ve had some water damage from a water pump failure that was feeding coolant into the ECM box. No blown fuses or rust, so it’s up to JB or DME.
3) I don’t currently have access to a multimeter, I have one at work but I can’t actually leave the house because our state is under a shelter-in-place ordinance.
Check for damaged and wet connector pins, no rust, but noticed some moisture in left DME connector, dry pins and clean female connector, put all connectors back into stock with JB4 wired in and fully removed.
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6) Any code other than 2ACB and 2ACC; These are mostly the only two codes I keep getting, I’ve done multiple code checks in every startup test, here are the last two:
A little background on how this all happened. The water pump failed and overheated the car. The coolant over sprayed the engine bay and got into my ECM box (I didn’t know about this until done.) At first, after the water pump and battery were replaced, the car ran normally . The next day the car shook and wouldn’t start. I started having random electrical problems, first the JB4 wouldn’t connect anymore, I replaced the board and again the car restarted. So I shut the car off and while updating some settings in the app, it lost connection and various electrical systems would turn on/off with random clicks.
I was then told to remove the JB4 completely and return my custom tune to stock with the MHD. During the flashing fog, the MHD app lost connection and stopped communicating with the MHD or protots. Another round of searching led me to a programmer who did a DME reset for me. Now I am able to connect to MHD/ProTools again. Here I am now. So feel free to try anything, I’m not good at electrical diagnostics but I’m very mechanically inclined so bear with me.
2) If the DME is not activated, the dashboard, lights, radio, windshield, wipers, windows, seats and starter will work normally.
N54 335xi Water Pump Issues
3) Sensors (crankshaft and camshaft) At that moment the engine does not start because the DME spark and injector pulse is not activated and the DME itself cannot work. Also the LPG pump does not work. It still has enough power for the DME to read and scan the memory.
So the two recurring codes indicate that your DME relay (K6300 linked to the previous thread on the TIS schematic, which is the correct schematic for the 2008 335xi with the N54) is not activating to deliver the symptoms you are describing. General DME functions and power supply to drive the sensors mentioned above.
Proper diagnosis suggests using a multimeter (or a test light will work) to verify that the DME relay is not activated. Here are wiring diagrams, mounting locations, and connector views to help you determine what your power supply is not getting (12V+ with a multimeter or test light).
Here is a wiring diagram showing how the DME is always powered by a 10 Amp F4 fuse. With the fuse removed, I’d start by using a multimeter or test light to check for power into one of the two F4 sockets. This is battery power (note the “30” above the fuse symbol which indicates “Terminal 30” or [unswitched] battery power).
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F4 only supplies power to the control system and does not power other DME functions. When the DME “turns on”, the red/grey wire from pin no. 13 of DME connector X60005 supplies a ground signal to the DME Relay K6300 electromagnet. Note that the red/grey wire goes through pin #. 5 of connector X60551 in the path from the DME to the relay. That X60551 connector is inside the e-box as shown below, and this is the easiest place to check, especially since you have the e-box open.
The coil side of the 12V+ transfer solenoid and the other side of the contacts are always connected to the battery supply or “terminal 30”, also known as Kl.30 (Klemmen is the German word for terminal), so if you aim to that red/gray wire to ground, if the transmission is “click”
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