Ancheer Electric Bike Wiring Diagram – Guys… I would appreciate your help in troubleshooting this issue. I bought Ancheer ebike last summer. This is a folding bike with magnesium alloy spokes. The bike lasts less than 40 miles (about 2 charges). After a 12-mile ride, the bike ran fine the next day, but the motor didn’t respond to throttle position or pedal assist. When I tried to move, there was no signal from the motor. The display will turn on to show that it is fully charged. I can switch between different modes (blow mode and different pedal assist levels), but none of them work. The fact that the display is on and the horn and lights work indicates that the battery is good. I got in touch with Ancheer and after several follow ups they diagnosed the problem as motor related based on the symptoms I listed. They sent me a motor that was a lot of work to replace but I blah blah. But that didn’t fix the problem…well…I thought the controller was the next thing I could think of, but this time I was quick to send the controller. This is at least a quick replacement, but unfortunately it doesn’t fix the problem. My next thought is maybe the blower cable is bad but why is the pedal assist not working… I think these are two different parts. even I replaced the motor and the controller I am very disappointed because the rest does not seem to be of a serious problem….what else can I do? Even though the display says it is in those settings, does the display actually change?Also, when I turn on the display, there is a small noise coming from somewhere. I noticed that it happened…. Is this correct?
It’s probably a wiring issue. What does your motor cycle look like? Round Connectors (Ignore the white buttons.) These connectors should be aligned with the arrows before they are fully seated.
Ancheer Electric Bike Wiring Diagram
Mine is different.. the hall sensor uses a 6 pin molex connector and the power cord is a separate 3 wire that just taps on the opposite end
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Harrys said: It’s probably a wire issue. What does your motor cycle look like? Round Connectors (Ignore the white buttons.) These connectors should be aligned with the arrows before they are fully seated. Many times I have encountered that the connector is not fully seated on the e-bike. Good luck. View Attachments 50194 Click to expand…
What about the broken bones? They are normally open switches when the levers are closed. When the levers are moved, the switch closes and depresses the motor.
Remove the breaker cable from the controller, there should be two. It seems the brakes are always off. Will you run?
I have heard about brake inhibitors but I don’t think I have one.. How to do it.. I was already pulling parts on the bike so I decided to make it more difficult. My giving, Change of light and horn are combined. The cable branches off on the control panel. The lights and horn are on one connector and the fan goes through another. Remember, in the original post, when I turned on the bike, I said there was a small but loud sound. When I plug the plug into the controller the Watts seems to make a tut sound even when I don’t push the throttle. I plug in the lights and horn and it doesn’t seem to make the sound. It triggers the whole system. To fail Think it could be wrong? Try uploading a video clip of high noise. Thank you for your help in solving this problem.
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You can’t see it clearly in the picture, but the brake connectors are usually 2 pin plugs. sometimes two. If you have two brake switches connected in parallel to one plug, you probably have one. Make sure it is removed.
When Hall wires are connected to Molex plugs, the wire colors match red-red, black-black, yellow-yellow, green-green, blue-blue on both sides.
Yes… both the PAS system and throttling didn’t work so it makes more sense that it’s a brake inhibitor issue… I have high hopes too.
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Yes… I followed a string from the delay to the controller. Yes…it’s 2 pin and there are the same two pin cables (one for front and one for back)…the two pins are coded gray and black.
Yes… the hall wires are wired correctly to match the corresponding molex from the controller. I tried to fire the accelerator without the molex wire attached, just with the motor controller cable attached, but that didn’t work either.
No, it comes from the controller once you plug in the pump cable. Note: At this point, we don’t push the coil down…we just connect the cable to the controller.
HarryS said: ebike testers are on hand. Do you still have a voltmeter? Click to enlarge… Yes…I Will
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HarryS: Can you post a picture of the throttle connector and pedal assist connector? Click to enlarge…
Yesterday I decided to measure the battery voltage… the voltage seems low, about 19v for a 36v battery. My voltmeter is peeling and the probe is not good…so I ordered a new one so I can get a good gauge. The display said the battery was fully charged, so I didn’t think to measure the voltage. This is the fact that it is a new battery with only 40 miles on it. Do you think lower values could cause the behavior I’m observing?
You don’t get real 19V from a 36V pack. Its internal circuit is dead below 30V, so you only see leakage at the pin.
2 cars. 2 controller. The display is bright. The show can run on its own without a director, so I’d like to see that. To do this, find the power supply that operates the PAS sensor.
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When you get your new meter, check the voltage between the black and red wires on the PAS connector to make sure the controller has power. It should read 4.5V or slightly higher. This confirms that the manager is on. You can also see the same voltage on the red/black pins of the molex connector with the motor cut-out.
The ebike connector of the electric vehicle also lights up to indicate 5 volts when connected to the controller.
Harrys says: Your internal circuit is dead below 30V, so you only see leakage at the pin. 2 cars. 2 controller. The display is bright. The show can run on its own without a director, so I’d like to see that. To do this, find the power supply that operates the PAS sensor. When you get your new meter, check the voltage between the black and red wires on the PAS connector to make sure the controller has power. It should read 4.5V or slightly higher. This confirms that the manager is on. You can also see the same voltage on the red/black pins of the molex connector with the motor cut-out. The ebike connector of the electric vehicle also lights up to indicate 5 volts when connected to the controller. Click to enlarge… The battery also powers the lights and horn in addition to the display. When you get a new meter, be sure to charge the bike before taking measurements. Thanks for your help…we’ll keep you updated.
I got a new meter. The battery is good and 42v is out. The black and red wire from the PAS outputs 4.4v and the molex black and red wire shows 0.7v. However, when I disconnect the power cable from the controller, the Molex outputs 4.4v. I have found that I can only get PAS to work if the USB cable is disconnected from the controller. Remember, I said when you plug the pump cable into the controller you hear a low volume but high pitched tone. Also, when I measured the voltage of the controller pin connected to the charger, I was surprised to see 41v. I don’t understand why the controller in this way is producing 41v. Anyway… I would like to adjust the throttle, but I would like to be able to use the bike in a way. 90% of the time I use PAS away. thank you for helping me.
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1) Is there an LED to show the battery status? If so, we need the battery voltage
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