48 Volt Electric Scooter Wiring Diagram Owner’s Manual – Hello how are you? Can you show me a diagram of how to install a 48 volt brake light? This I have description Voltage: 48V Function: LED tail light with reflector connection: Yellow: Tail light Positive Green: Tail light Negative Red: Brake light Positive Blue: Brake light Negative This system I 1: 48 Volt 150 Amp Power Counter ( RLY- 48150) 1: 48 Volt 2000W Electric Scooter Speed Controller (SPD-482000A) 48 Volt Throttle with Key, with k at the end. How do I add a brake light to this system? Thank you for your help
Here is the basic wiring diagram. There should be a fuse between the switches and the battery pack, which is not shown in the diagram for simplicity.
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Ok, I think I got it. I’ll turn it on and take a look. I have another question. Just finished hooking up the 48 volt system controller, power contactor battery, choke. The problem is that the power contactor heats up, which is normal. I hold it, I think I can wear it, but I don’t know if it will warm. Turn it off because I don’t want to cause any harm. It cools down when you turn off the power
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The power contactor gets hot to the touch, so there’s nothing to worry about. It’s designed to run continuously, so you can leave it on as long as you want without overheating.
Hold on. The brake light is connected like this when I connect it to the controller-motor section of the wire ??
Cut the wire and brake light to connect the brake switch to the controller motor, a 48 volt relay like item # RLY-4860 is required.
So on the diagram are you saying both wires coming out of the brake lever are positive or are you talking about the red wire?
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I’m a bit confused because the brake lever I want to use is the original Ecosmart brake lever
The two brake switch wires are disconnected regardless of the polarity chosen to connect to the brake switch. In the latest circuit diagram, the positive current is connected to the brake switch.
If the brake switch has two different colored wires, such as red and black, then it doesn’t matter which color wire goes to the battery pack or the light and relay.
Ok, I was thinking of adding a potentiometer to enable the cruise control. How to add this to the system???
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I got the thumb throttle unit to turn on and off with the voltage showing successfully. But I get no throttle response so the engine won’t rev.
The “3-speed transmission” or “3-speed shift” wires on the controller are not connected. I don’t have a place to plug this in because the thumb wire only has 5 wires (3 wires: Black, Red, Green. 1 wire to electrical lock wire, 1 wire to battery +). So I can’t tell the controller to spin the wheel?
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I don’t think it has anything to do with the power input/output rating on the controller, which prevents it from getting power to the wheel, as I’ve tried this on another controller with lower power (60V 45 amps) and had similar results. The only ones that work are the original voltage controller and throttle display that came with my scooter. What am I doing here… any ideas?
Do you understand that the controller phase and hall sensor wires must match the motor wires correctly (in the correct order) for it to work?
It should be noted that during this conversion process, there is no guarantee that the color of the wires (phase wire, hall wire or lead wire) will be opposite to one side.
What I’m saying is that you may have the throttle correct, but if the phase and sensor wires are incorrect, you may now have a problem. Both wiring (motor AND throttle) must be correct for the engine to respond to the throttle.
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Since I’m not familiar with the controllers that use them, my first thought would be about the “self-learning” wiring. Do they “learn” to match the wiring of phase and hall sensors? If so, how do I do a “reset” if it doesn’t work?
AHicks said: Did you know that the controller phase and hall sensor wires have to match the motor wires correctly (in the correct order) to work? It should be noted that during this conversion process, there is no guarantee that the color of the wires (phase wire, hall wire or lead wire) will be opposite to one side. What I’m saying is that you may have the throttle correct, but if the phase and sensor wires are incorrect, you may now have a problem. Both wiring (motor AND throttle) must be correct for the engine to respond to the throttle. This is a very difficult project for the inexperienced to do properly. Since I’m not familiar with the controllers that use them, my first thought would be about the “self-learning” wiring. Do they “learn” to match the wiring of phase and hall sensors? If so, how do I do a “reset” if it doesn’t work? Click to expand… Thanks for your reply. Yes, I don’t know if the wires on the phase switch and the hall sensor match. I tried every combination of phase wires I could think of and trying to connect them but it made no difference. The only thing I didn’t test was the hall sensor wiring because I wasn’t ready to test all the combinations for that. If I had the energy to do anything, I’d get a new scooter…
Because I’m so tired. I thought I couldn’t connect the Hall sensor wire to start the motor… The other controller I tested (45 amps) didn’t have the Hall sensor wire. My original controller has hall sensor wiring.
There are 2 types of controllers. One is sensorless and does not use hall sensors. The other is touch sensitive and uses sensors. If the controller has sensor wires, you usually need to connect them.
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It should be noted that the sensor wires are usually connected with the same color combination used by the phase wires.
Thanks for the info, AHicks. I’m giving up on this new controller…it doesn’t work. The reason I got this is because a few months ago one of my controllers AND the front motor (Dual Motor Electric Scooter) died.
I’m ordering a 2800w motor for the front and THIS is it… So the throttle display works with the controller, LOL.
Not sure if the key lock thumb throttle I recently bought (see above) will work… Or should I buy a different key lock switch? Which one, THEM or THEM? I don’t know what to do. I plan to run two controllers and two throttles independently.
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I have a self learning controller. The instructions were to do it by hooking up the training wires. The engine should rotate twice. Then disconnect the wires, and the controller will remember the learned settings. It worked for me, and two years later I still remember the controller. I didn’t – change halls and see if the controller can adapt to this,
HarryS said: I have a self learning controller. The instructions were to do it by hooking up the training wires. The engine should rotate twice. Then disconnect the wires, and the controller will remember the learned settings. It worked for me, and two years later I still remember the controller. I haven’t – switch halls and see if the controller can adapt to that Click to expand… Thanks for your reply. Yes, I have done this before but no work. The wheel won’t even turn briefly… It jerks and opens for a micro second.. I ordered the motor today… the controller and throttle display will be ordered later.
And the 2800v front motor is on its way…(ordered last week) I don’t know how long it will take. I hope it all works this time.. I don’t want to mess with wires, I just want “Plug-N-Play” and a guarantee of compatibility. I first checked with the seller if this controller kit is compatible with the motor I purchased and he said yes. I also ordered the key lock switch…he said it would work with or without it.
This is a huge controller with 24 mosfets! Perhaps the largest space is occupied by the radiator cooling system. It will be
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