240v Electric Tankless Water Heater Wiring Diagram – In Electrical wiring and thermostat wiring and installation, we will show you how to install and install unbalanced (unbalanced) water heaters and thermostats for 240V AC single phase (US) and 230V AC single phase (UK / EU).
As we have discussed before about continuity (simultaneity) and discontinuity (non-simultanity). In ironing at the same time, both water heating elements are operated at the same time whereas in the case of using the cable at the same time, only one heating element is working at the same time and the second one is “ON”. ” when the first finishes the heating work and is stopped by the heat supply automatically by the thermostat wiring configuration.
240v Electric Tankless Water Heater Wiring Diagram
In this post, we will demonstrate 10kW of two elements (5kW each for heating) and a 240V AC supply from 120/240V mains and 7kW of two elements (3.5k each for heating) at 230V AC and 240V AC from wired thermostat for non-continuous operation ie only one heating element will be used at a time.
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As in the previous wiring design, the top of the thermostat is connected to a single-phase 240V AC power supply via a 30 amp supply. Line (L1) as a hot wire is connected to the thermostat on the right of L3. Two wires (blue and red) go from thermostat L4 to the first terminals of the top and bottom elements while terminal T4 of the top thermostat is connected to the bottom thermostat 1 and T2 of the top thermostat is connected to the second terminal of the heating element. . Then, terminal “2” of the bottom thermostat is connected to the second terminal of the floor heating element.
Non-simultaneous operation of the trimostat will automatically turn off the upper heating element once it is in good working order and connected to the lower one. The following diagram shows it clearly.
Since there are two heating elements that are rated at 5,000 watts each, the total wattage rating of this heater is 10,000 watts. We’ll be using breakers and switches for half the total wattage which is 10kW because only one thing is working at a time.
Now at 240V AC a 30A circuit breaker fits both 10 gauge wires as per the following calculations.
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Alternatively, the safe current limit is 80% (0.8), so 30A x 0.8 = 24 Amp safe for the load.
This method, the breakdown voltage of 30A over protection is suitable for the 5kW case of two constant current water heaters at 240V AC.
The following 7kW (3.5kW heating elements each) have the same wiring as mentioned above for the 5kW thermostat wiring although 20A one way is used in 230V AC for ON/OFF operation. Note that this switch is not suitable for a two-line 240V supply.
In the following diagram of a 3500 watt uninterruptible power supply, the two wires from the main board are shown as “L” and “N” for a 230V AC power supply and L1 and L2 for two 240V AC power supplies.
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Note: The red color indicates the line or Phase wire and the black color indicates the neutral wire in the picture above. You can follow regional cable color codes i.e. IEC or NEC.
120VAC 230VAC 24V
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Looks like you are using ads. We advertise to support our fund and provide free information. Please Whitelist Our Website By Allowing AdsIn the electric heater and electric series, we will show the continuous direction that is the simultaneous heating of two things (Watt 9000 (Watt 4500 each) and the temperature of the water heater 240V and 230V. You can see the places which is installed at 240V at the same time iron water heater
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As we discussed earlier about simultaneous (continuous) and non-simultaneous (discontinuous). In short, simultaneous and simultaneous humidity or heating is provided by independent power when in non-continuous (non-simultaneous) time, the upper heating element turns off when finished working and switches to the lower thermostat and heats things automatically due to wiring configuration.
In this post, we will show 9kW of two elements (4.5kW heaters each) with 240V and 230V AC supply and the thermostat and heat use a cable to continuously work i.e. the thermostat and heat will work at the same time as they get the power supply different from the main board.
For a 9000 watt simultaneous water heater, we use the red and black wires as Line 1 and Line 2 for AC 240V and Line and Neutral for AC 230V.
Both lines from the 120V / 240V main line as electricity are connected to the thermostat and temperature. L1 is connected to the left side of the upper thermostat and lower thermostat L3 via a 50 ampere power supply and 45 and 50 ampere safety relays. A single circuit breaker is connected to the bottom thermostat and heater followed by a single circuit breaker and switch. You can use two 30 amp mains for two electric fans and a heater instead of 50 amp mains.
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The thermostat’s L4 and T2 terminals are both connected to the top and bottom elements. In the case of a single circuit breaker (50A), a 6 wire can be used where a 10 gauge is suitable in the case of two separate circuit breakers at 30A.
The diagram below shows the wiring of a 9000 watt water heater for simultaneous use where the thermostat and the two elements are connected to separate the two pole circuits of 30 Amps each.
The wiring continuity for a 230V single phase water heater is the same as above 240V where the only difference is that L1 and L2 are indicated by Line and Neutral.
In other words, a 50A breaker with a 240V supply can deliver 9000 watts.
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This means that the system can efficiently handle loads up to 9.6kW instead of our 9kW watts.
Note: The red color indicates the line or Phase wire and the black color indicates the neutral wire in the picture above. You can follow regional cable color codes i.e. IEC or NEC.
120VAC 230VAC 24V
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Looks like you are using ads. We advertise to support our fund and provide free information. Please Whitelist Our Site By Allowing Ads Use only 600 volt power cord. Light cords, extension cords are not rated for 600 volts. Use only copper wire. Aluminum wire is a fire hazard and should be removed or installed by a professional.
120-240 volt 30 amp outlets can only be plugged into a 30 amp breaker / use a 10 gauge cord… cannot be plugged into a 15-20-40 amp breaker.
Orange/#10 gauge wire, grounded…30 amp capacity. Maximum safety: 30 x 80% = 24 amps.
A 120 volt 20 amp outlet can be plugged into a 20 amp breaker, but not a 15 amp breaker / use 12 ga wire.
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120 volt 15 amp outlets, AFCI, GFCI, timers, switches, etc. can be set to a 15 or 20 amp breaker. Never connect 15 gauge lead to a 20-30-40amp breaker.
All exposed equipment, cargo, metal, etc. must not move. The grounding wire must be permanent in its installation, never disconnected, not used as a neutral wire.
It can be used as a basic connector, and it will protect the cable from damage. Metal is subject to stress and failure.
All pipes … metal, plastic … soft and hard … must be attached to the structure, and connected to railings, boxes.
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It’s always good to have a power outage, but reliability failures, lost connections, neutrals, missing GFCI, non-coded wires, generators running without transfer, and other issues still pose a risk to anyone who works with electricity… even when breaking.
Or THHN cables are good for cables and multi-wire… but you can’t run them under phone screws on products, switches, timing etc. without any effect…the heat causes the cable to expand….it comes loose…and starts to buckle. Connect vertically to the short copper wire, and screw it tightly to the screw terminal. Do not sell residential or commercial cables.
Project cables, extension cords, thermostats, alarms, and automobile cables are not rated for commercial or industrial cables. Only cables made of 600 volts may be used for continuous wiring.
Use tweezers instead of pliers or a screwdriver to remove objects (and nails). Do not plug wires or cables into it.
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When removing insulation, do not use dots or place them on copper wire. Doing so increases the stress and heat on the cable and makes it weaker.
Speed tested on two different circuits. Ohms or resistance is tested on both ends of the same cable. Amperage is tested on one or two circuits
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