115v Swamp Cooler Electrical Plug Junction Box Wiring Diagram

115v Swamp Cooler Electrical Plug Junction Box Wiring Diagram – Simplify and save on your next industrial/commercial evaporative cooler installation job. We bring the highest possible level of customer service by offering factory fit and pre-wire services that save time and money on all your installation jobs.

Simplify and save on your next commercial evaporative cooler installation job with our factory pre-wire service. A single point connection (SPC) requires a power supply for motor voltage as well as a 120 volt supply for the contacts, switch box and pump which must be separated.

115v Swamp Cooler Electrical Plug Junction Box Wiring Diagram

Factory pre-wire service includes installation and installation of motor, motor case, pump, float, control box and junction box. The control box is ready to provide 120 volt line and motor voltage, which greatly simplifies installation and reduces work time.

Help Setting Up The Venstar Colortouch T7900 Thermostat With Rc And Rh Using A R

When working on a job where chillers are being fitted to an existing installation, we will offer specific models (SPCR) for that 240V application. This is an application where the coolers are replaced and the existing power supply remains intact. For those jobs with existing 240V wiring, all components – including pumps, controller and motor – are supplied at 240V.

Factory pre-wire service includes installation and installation of motor, motor case, pump, float, control box and pump junction box. The SPC control box is ready for 120V pump supply wire and motor power supply. For SPCR the control box is only connected to the motor and the 240 V pump.

The ordering process will be ordering an SPC model cooler, motor, motor pulley, 115V pump, float and accessory.

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Frigiking Fd450 Evaporative Cooler Down Draft 4500 Cfm 14856

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Digital Low Voltage Cooler Control Kit 115v/230v

I currently have an HVAC system that is connected to a Nest thermostat (2nd generation) and plan to use the same Nest thermostat to control a 110 swamp cooler that is not currently connected.

Before I tackle the problem of connecting both systems to the same thermostat (perhaps using switches/relays to turn one system off while the other is on) I’d like to know if it’s possible to control the egg cooler with a Nest thermostat. I don’t have much electrical knowledge, but I did some research and I think it’s possible if I buy a few more things.

The Egg Cooler has a 2 speed motor, so I would like the Nest thermostat to control both speeds via terminals Y1 and Y2. As far as I know, two-stage thermostats will apply voltage from terminal R to Y2 if more cooling power is required at the same time voltage is applied from terminal R to Y1. I also want the water pump to run whenever the thermostat calls for cooling (at both speeds), but I only want the water pump to run for a few minutes before the engine starts.

I found that the Honeywell RC840T-120 can allow me to use a 24v Nest thermostat with the 110v egg cooler and using an SPDT relay I can connect Y1 and Y2 to the 2 terminals of a 2 speed motor. The Honeywell RC840T-120 was designed to connect line voltage controlled heaters to 24V thermostats, but I think it will work with the swamp cooler as well. This device will be the first relay to decide if the pump and motor will receive power. This first relay will be connected to the PTD102 delay which will delay the power to the SPDT relay, the latter is actually what will control the motor power based on terminal Y2 from the Nest thermostat. The thermostat will only send power to Y1 for the first speed, and in case it needs more cooling power, it will start sending power to Y1 and Y2 at the same time and cause the SPDT relay to switch the voltage to High through terminal 3 as follows. The diagram shows:

Dial Econ5000 Maxcool Evaporative Cooler Pump 1050

Please let me know if you think this way of wiring the thermostat will allow me to control the swamp cooler and if it will also control both speeds

Yes, it’s easy to control a swamp cooler with any thermostat. The problem is that to use a swamp cooler effectively, you need strategic vents (usually open windows) to let the air out. This is the hard part to automate. The best way to use a swamp cooler is to open the windows in the rooms that need cooling the most. You want to open as much window space as possible without outside air coming back from the windows. There are some automatic devices that I have seen (such as the UP-DUX that goes into the attic, but they cause additional resistance and are therefore much less effective.

Below is a drawing that will fix these problems, but it is much more general, the only specific part is the Packard contact delay because I don’t know the generic part name for it. If you fix 1 – 3, your design should work flawlessly. Again, exhaust ventilation is your biggest problem.

I would put a nice 24v DPDT relay and a nice 24v 3PDT relay in the appropriate mounting sockets and mount them on a DIN rail. This will make it easy and clean. Put everything in the box with the transformer and Packard and voila.

Hessaire 115 Volt 60hz 21,000 Cfm Evaporative Cooler (swamp Cooler) Pump Fp22000

So I ended up hooking up the Nest thermostat. I didn’t connect terminal C to the transformer because the Nest gives me a “no power detected for Rc wire” error if I do. So far, I’ve had no issues with low battery because the Nest is able to recharge from the RC cord.

I would not follow the recommendation of Mr. Solar is due to safety and is excessive. You don’t want the potential to run high and low speeds at the same time, plus a 3PDT relay isn’t required for anything, keep the DPDT. The standard method is to use an SPDT contact to change the speed so that the voltage is only applied to low or high, but never both. Therefore the correct way is for the DPDT relay (first stage cooling Y1) to operate the pump and the time delay relay which controls the power through the common leg of a second SPDT relay. This second SPDT relay is activated by Y2 for high speed. Basically what I’m saying is that the original poster had exactly the correct control logic (except for the R8222B1067 coil that needs a C) in his diagram and that he follows standard control practices and I respectfully advise you not to follow the advice later given by Mr. Solar. Nest is smart and doesn’t care if you close R or Rc because it will automatically jump those two connectors. Your problem is two transformers. I suggest replacing the RC840T-120 with a second R822B1067. Transformer power will be supplied from your existing furnace transformer already connected. You didn’t show the heater wiring so I don’t know if you were supposed to use terminal C now or not. Many times you don’t need the common thread to end up at Nest. Connect everything as you first show, except the coil R822B1067 goes to C and not R.

Also UP-Dux “they are much less effective” is not my experience at all. They are excellent and do not cause a significant decrease in efficiency. Plus it’s safe because the windows don’t stay open.

FYI: The time delay is not critical, you can leave it out and the few minutes it takes for your pillows to get wet may not be worth it. I have two coolers at home and I do it both ways and the time delay was not worth the extra cost. But if maximum efficiency is your desire, then I’d put it on the value of pre-wetting the pads to prevent hot air from entering.

Swamp Cooler Control Cable 14 Gauge 5 Wire

A very active question. Won 10

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